The adidas BW Army is Back for the First Time in Nearly 10 Years

Published March 21, 2025

Military surplus stores across Germany were flooded with non-branded adidas sneakers after the Berlin Wall fell in 1989 as the Bundeswehr (German Army) no longer needed to keep a large armed force on standby. These sneakers originally began production in the ‘70s as adidas quietly manufactured hundreds of thousands of pairs of these low-top leather and suede models for the West German army. Still, it wouldn’t be until Martin Margiela discovered the model and included it in Maison Margiela’s Spring/Summer 1999 show that the design would become a fashion statement. Since then, the Margiela Replica has become a highly sought-after design, but adidas would catch on and reintroduce the sneaker multiple times in the 2000s and 2010s. Now, nearly 10 years since the last GR release of the BW Army, adidas is bringing it back in 2025.

We have seen the BW Army land in a few different colorways since its 2017 run, including collaborations with Hartcopy, Kith, and size? exclusive variants. However, as mentioned before, the two upcoming colorways of the adidas BW Army, the Lux White Gum and Lux Black Gum, will mark the first time adidas has released a non-collab version of the sneaker in nearly a decade. Both pairs come with the iconic low-top leather and suede construction, featuring a leather panel on the midfoot and suede overlays on the toe and profile.

Separating these two “lux” variants from the standard BW Army is the use of premium cracked leather on the base layer, leaning into the model’s vintage roots. Other premium features include the tan leather sockliner and the smooth leather eyestays, tongue, and heel tab. Underfoot sits a gum rubber midsole and outsole, featuring adidas branding near the lateral heel.

The adidas BW Army Lux Pack will release on March 25, 2025, through Up There online and in-store. A wider release through adidas and select global retailers will take place in June 2025. Check below for official images of the pairs, and download the Sole Retriever mobile app to stay updated on the latest releases, raffles, news, and more in the sneaker and streetwear world.